'A dream job': chef Gabriel Gat on eating his way through the Tour de France
On his annual food show, Taste le Tour, Gaté samples food and wine along the scenic Tour de France. But one region rises above the others
French chef extraordinaire Gabriel Gaté may have the best job in the world. For more than half of the year he travels the spectacularly scenic route of the 21-stage Tour de France bicycle race, sampling produce from artisan cheese-makers, pastry chefs and winemakers.
Gaté shares his discoveries in his gastronomic segment, Taste le Tour, which airs on SBS every night ahead of each tour stage. The show – a seven-month-long production – has been produced by Gaté for 13 years.
“The most challenging aspect is the timing of the shoots – in about 40 locations in France every year,” he says.
Gaté kindly took a break from preparing the amuse-bouches to speak with Guardian Australia about the show.
Guardian Australia: Do you enjoy watching the Tour de France yourself?
Gabriel Gaté: I have followed the Tour de France all my life. I love the competition between the great riders, as well as the superb filming and commentary of the race, and, of course, the amazing French scenery.
This is your 13th Taste le Tour. Is there a particularly memorable moment over the years you can share?
Taste le Tour is a dream job, as it involves all the skills that I have learned over 40 years. There are many highlights, the most memorable of which is a story with the legendary French chef, Paul Bocuse in his three-star restaurant in Lyon. [Bocuse is now 91 and still runs a chain of brasseries in Lyon along with his three-Michelin-star l’Auberge du Pont de Collonges.]
What does famous local ham made from black pigs bred in a village nestled high in the Pyrenees taste like?
The beautiful ham is salted and dried, so there is a strong concentration of earthy flavours in the lean part, but the highlight is the amazing rich nutty flavour of the smooth fat.
Any controversial moments during the history of Taste le Tour?
My aim is to show the best of French food and to feature the most talented artisans – the bakers, chefs, pastry chefs, winemakers. These people are generous with their time, but not all of them understand that after three hours of filming you may only use about one minute of it.
Your twin brother, the gendarme François, occasionally delights viewers with a Taste le Tour appearance. Can we expect to see him this year?
We had to retire François, as his doctor recommended he eat less French butter and cheese.François and I have naturally a very close relationship and I loved his contribution to Taste le Tour, but we had to retire him, as his doctor recommended he eat less French butter and cheese, and to drink some of the best wines in the world moderately.
What do you prefer: a majestic bouillabaisse or a well-cultivated foie gras?
This is a tough choice as both are special taste experiences. I will settle for the bouillabaisse. It is bigger and we feature an amazing one on our show in Marseille on 22 July.
Some of your recipes seem complicated for the home cook. When you are feeling lazy, what meal do you like to prepare?
When I am tired I prepare an omelette, a salad or enjoy some cheese with good bread and a glass of wine.
Which region of France do you find the most magnificent?
For our show the Alps and the Pyrenees give us stunning images, but I have a special love for Provence with its colourful markets.
If your fans at home decided to cook one elaborate dish to celebrate the Tour, what would you recommend?
There are so many great French dishes, but I think the chicken and capsicum casserole with olives would be popular. [You can find Gabriel’s recipe for this Provençal dish here].
Where do you source fresh ingredients when you are in Australia?
Our markets, food halls and specialist artisans carry many of the essential ingredients used in French cooking, like fresh fish, vegetables, herbs, olive oil, butter, cream, wine and more.
Of all the dishes you prepared for Taste le Tour, which do you think deserves to take out the yellow jersey?
In 2017 we refreshed our show with a few changes. We have more content in France in the markets and with artisans, but this year we don’t feature recipes. However, we offer a selection of regional recipes on the Taste le Tour with Gabriel Gaté website. The upside-down peach tart is a winner.
Taste le Tour with Gabriel Gaté airs at various times each evening from 1-23 July, on SBS
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